 Between the late nineties and the early 2000s, I was a professional bowler boasting a series of regional and national successes. In those years, bowling in my city was a great reality and the facility where I played was very cool with 24 lanes. Another stimulating thing was the complicity that had been created between us bowlers: so many people with different personalities, driven by competition and rivalry that only brought good times made of both competitive and personal comparisons. At the time I was just over twenty years old and in a certain sense I was like a rookie because the people who frequented the bowling club were much older than me. In those years, for better or for worse, I learned a lot from my bowling companions and above all there was one whose personal stories fascinated me a lot. At the time of the facts, this companion of mine was just under forty years old, and had already had an adventurous life. He was a paratrooper, with 7 emergencies, he was successful with women because he was gifted by nature and above all despite having a permanent job, he wanted to move to Spain to live with the woman he loved most. Today, times have changed but at the time a forty-year-old who rather than sort out his life, looked for new adventures and bets, was a rarity and personally he was an inspiration. This very brave and adventurous bowling companion of mine, however, had a weak point, he also had a passion that softened him and made him more human; it was not his Spanish woman but the city of Seville! For him it was the most beautiful city in the world and every time he spoke about it the tone of his voice changed and his eyes shone. It was clear that he loved Seville in such a genuine way and without external influences. His stories about the city have always made me dream of Seville but like every city of which I have great expectations, I am always a little afraid to go there because I don't want to be disappointed. It can be said that I was introduced to the knowledge of Seville, by this bowling companion of mine but only much later I decided that I had to go there and exactly after having visited Marrakech. In fact, during the visit to the Moroccan city, our guide explained to us that the Koutubia together with the Giralda of Seville and the Hassan II tower, were twin towers, built with this intent. During the same trip I would have visited Rabat and therefore also the Hassan II tower, so that year I had no choice but to go to Seville and complete the trio of towers. Another reason that gave me great motivation to visit Seville were also the other destinations that I could reach from there; one of these was the city of Ronda, known thanks to the novel “Death in the Afternoon” by Ernest Hemingway and since then I began to love it always having the desire to visit it. Initially I proposed the trip to one of my male friend but he immediately refused, later I invited my historic female travel partner who instead accepted immediately. The trip to Seville was also a trip through part of Andalusia and having done it with a girl added an exotic-romantic tone that I had not expected. I do not know if my partner had been more beautiful in those days but I think that the credit goes to the enchanting and unreal places that we visited together. Plaza de EspañaIn reality, I had no images or idea of Seville when I discovered it thanks to the stories told by my bowling buddy. His descriptions, elaborated by my imagination, only led me to imagine these narrow streets with their particular paving. It was only later, when I saw the image of Plaza de España, that I definitively associated Seville with this colorful and complex structure. Normally, if I see a structure like this, I don’t like to investigate its history but rather go and see it in person. This is the approach I prefer; my natural reaction to the sight of something and not the story told by an “expert” who is nothing more than a servant of a master. Even when I first saw this structure, when I hadn’t fully applied my logic to certain “historical” structures, I always had the goal of seeing Plaza de España rather than studying it. It goes without saying that until a minute before seeing it, all I knew about this structure was that it was a majestic architectural complex built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Even though our exploration of Seville began the evening of our arrival, the visit to Plaza de España was actually the first visit of the first day in the city. Our hotel was a few blocks from the square and we entered the complex from the Puerta de Aragon, located behind the square. From the entrance I noticed the decorated ceramics on the walls and the terracotta flooring on the ground, these details gave a strong sign of the style of the complex. Immediately after the entrance there was a staircase that took us to a large hall where there was a very large staircase formed by a central block that split on the sides after the first flight. It was a monumental staircase thanks also to the walls completely covered in ceramic that gave even more depth to the background as well as beauty to the staircase. The hall also opened onto the long corridor or gallery that accompanied the semicircular design of the entire work, a corridor that on one side had the walls and on the other the very tall columns with a view of the square. I remembered that corridor but I didn't immediately understand where I had seen it, then much later, re-watching the film "Lawrence of Arabia", there was a scene set in that corridor where the protagonists had a conversation and if I'm not mistaken it was at the end of the first interlude of the film. Right in front of the staircase, the view of the square opened up, from that perspective we were higher than it and therefore we could appreciate it even better. My feeling after entering the large entrance hall was already of gigantic proportions: from the size of the staircase, to the columns along the corridor and the size of the square itself; it was disproportionate. Looking out then I could see the Torre Nortre which remained on the right and was imposing and articulated in its design, that tower had a twin, the Torre Sur which was at the other end of the semicircle, both would have had a different effect if they had been built in a different place. As I have already written in other posts, I love structures that have large spaces in front so that I can observe and photograph them perfectly, in the case of the towers of Plaza de España, they had so much space in front that I could not perceive their size. Of course when I got closer, the dimensions were clear and perceived, however there were so many other elements in the square that personally I was not too close to either tower. The square was very complex with the river and the beautiful bridges that crossed it, in addition to this, right in the center there was a very large fountain even if from afar I could only see the jets of water. All these elements were visible by looking out from the corridor but clearly the effect changed and was amplified after we went down to the level of the square, there I had the sensation of being sucked into a vortex that in this case had the shape of a semicircle. Exploring the lower part, in addition to the different perspective on the Torre Nortre that became even more imposing, together with my partner we discovered a series of “installations” dedicated to different Spanish cities. They were real works of art all made of ceramic, very colorful with a square shape. Inside in a sort of miniature, there was the geographical area of the city while on the wall an image of the city or a historical event related to it. To complete the design, on the sides and higher up, there were two small towers also in ceramic. These works were all the same shape and were a sort of mosaic with larger tiles. They were distributed along the entire semi-circular shape of the square so it was difficult to stop for each of them because they covered the entire area between the two towers. Personally I stopped to study them and take photos only of the works dedicated to the Canary Islands, Badajoz, Alméria, Alicante, Cadiz, Madrid, Malaga, Oviedo, Valencia and Toledo. At the time, of these ten cities I had only visited Madrid and Valencia, today as I write this post, I am happy to have seen them all except Badajoz, Alméria and Oviedo. Walking along the semicircle of the square was very suggestive both for the orange color of the whole complex that stood out and gave a unique connotation, and because the design of the square gave a feeling of disorientation. I mean, being a semicircle, I lost my point of reference and it was difficult to understand in what exact position I was. Under one of the large arches there was a group of flamenco dancers who performed beautifully and impeccably. That show was the first of a long series that we saw in Seville, a place where street artists such as dancers and singers were not only many but were also as good as professionals. The other beautiful and in a certain sense disproportionate thing were the bridges that crossed the river. Very wide, with a harmonious arch and richly decorated where the color amplified these decorations even more. We walked and explored the square for a long time until we reached the farthest point, the mirror image in the center of the semicircle beyond the fountain. From there I could perceive the size of the square without being able to capture it with just one glance. The structure was so large that it was necessary to turn from one point to another to admire it all. Plaza de España was so beautiful and unique that we couldn't leave it, so much so that before leaving we went back to the steps leading to the first floor. We saw a couple of newlyweds during the photo shoot and it was so beautiful and original that we followed them until they went up to the upper floor. Even though I don't like this type of event, that day for some reason I remained overlooking it and even took many photos of the newlyweds, something I rarely do. Our visit to Plaza de España was not the only one, thanks also to the proximity of our hotel, we returned several times, even as a "transit" to reach the historic center. Plaza de España had a unique charm, an enchantment that was difficult to understand rationally and by which one could only be enchanted.       Torre Nortre           CenterOur daily exploration of the historic center of Seville was most often marked by the same route. First we took two very wide streets in the new part of the city, then we catapulted ourselves into the magic of the old “barrio” once we crossed Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo. This leap into a totally different dimension used to happen after we had breakfast in one of the nearby squares. That break was like a preparation to enter a portal that took us, about five meters away, to a different and unknown place. The old part of the city of Seville was made up of streets so narrow and irregular that it was a world unto itself. It wasn’t just because of the difference of urban plans, it was because the streets of the old barrio, in addition to being narrow, were not symmetrical and had very strange angles. However, that was precisely the beauty, and it was right there that I found the famous stone streets that my bowling colleague often described to me. Even though I knew that one of those streets would take us to a main square, walking through them gave me a sense of mystery because in fact I couldn’t see any sign of light or horizon. However, this mystery was embellished by the colors that were in the streets, both those of some houses and those of the decorations of the shops or restaurants that were along the streets. The old “barrio” and the little streets that we walked through before arriving at the Giralda were like a sweet colored labyrinth. If the first time had been a somewhat oppressive and mysterious experience, as I walked through those streets I began to feel like they were mine and those places were like a cradle, an intimate and personal area where I felt good. Inside the “barrio” there was a triangular square called “Tres Cruces” because of three ancient columns that were surrounded by a low railing. This square wasn’t on one of the shortest streets to get to the center, however once I discovered the place many times I liked to take the very narrow street that crossed that square, just to see the three columns. The first time at Plaza Virgen de los Reyes was before sunset, it was very suggestive to see the natural colors and then the square and the Girlada light up with a yellow color in a chromatic shade that went from natural to artificial. The square had in the center the "Fuente de la Farola" a very large fountain where people not only had their pictures taken but also used it to sit and rest a bit. Plaza Virgen was very beautiful despite being very irregular and surrounded by buildings that were practically all different from each other. The Fuente was in the center, however looking at the Girlada, it remained off-center on the right and next to it there was a fraction of the back part of the cathedral. Surely the tower took the scene compared to the church but it was as if it did not want to be admired because of its position. In fact, the Giralda had to be discovered, you had to find the right angles and the right distance to be able to see it well while from Plaza Virgen it was too imposing and overhanging. The other buildings in the square, while all maintaining the same bright colors, had different styles and urban layouts. This irregularity gave even more character to the square where the streets adjacent to these structures were like those crossroads in some children's stories; each of them led somewhere where perhaps the prize at the end of them was something different for each crossroad chosen. One of these streets led to Plaza del Trunfio, a very asymmetrical and irregular place but also beautiful for this reason. The square was surrounded by a nave of the cathedral, by gardens and by the beautiful fortress "Real Alcázar de Sevilla". Especially the latter built with large stones and with the corner tower, created a medieval space in the middle of other different styles, it was like a theme park but real. Unfortunately during our visits we were unable to see the Alcázar because there was always a long line and I did not want to buy the ticket online so as not to be tied to a specific day and time. Also for the same reason I was unable to visit the cathedral, a particular structure where the facade could not be admired in its entirety. This is because it overlooked Avenida de la Constitution, a very busy and not wide street. In general, I noticed more of the cathedral the part that overlooked Plaza del Trunfio because it was very wide and I could appreciate a lateral and very articulated part of the structure. The Giralda, on the other hand, had several very beautiful views because, being a structure that developed in height, it could be admired in its entirety even from the narrow streets. One of the places that after discovering it I started to frequent practically every day, was the riverside. The first time I walked along it to go and see the Torre del Oro and as a person who lives by the sea, I love promenades with a walk and a view of the sea or as in the case of Seville, of the river. The riverside of Seville was very articulated with different levels and made both with paving and dirt parts. The canal was very wide and had beautiful views of the opposite bank, it was beautiful to see and ideal for creating very original photos. The place was beautiful in itself but one of the main attractions was the Torre del Oro, a tower built in stone, not very tall and in fact not imposing but still attracted tourists and locals. One of the evenings after sunset, walking in the area, there was an event where they projected a series of videos on the tower, now I don't remember what the theme was. The tower therefore beyond its beauty and antiquity was also a point of reference for organizing events. Personally, I wasn’t very impressed but the whole area and parts of the terrace in that area were enchanting to me and reminded me of seaside places. In fact, on the terrace there were also modern kiosks where you could have happy hour in a very suggestive environment. From my point of view, the other beautiful thing that was close to the river was the Plaza de Toros, I always love to see this type of structure in every city in Spain that has one. This one in Seville was very original where on a white background, there were yellow decorations around all the doors and windows, these on their side were red. I really liked the combination together with the style of the Plaza de Toros with the balconies and the tiled roof. An original thing about the structure was the entrance where two portholes on the first floor combined with the entrance door made up of columns, created the look of a person with an astonished face. It was incredible because even moving from different angles it seemed like a funny face was looking at us with a strange expression. The final part of the promenade ended right under the Puente Isabel II, this area like the Torre del Oro was very popular and full of people. The bridge itself did not have a particular design, it was a mix of iron and concrete but the area had been redeveloped around it. One of the reasons was due to the fact that the bridge was illuminated after sunset. This brought many people to spend time on the riverside and I also returned there often for this reason taking night photos of the bridge but they never fully satisfied me. Avenida de La Constitution was definitely the main and busiest artery that cut through the city leading to the central places like the Ayuntamiento and Plaza Nueva. The Ayuntamiento building was rectangular in shape, very beautiful and imposing for its width and the infinite decorations in relief on the entire facade. It was literally an island between the Plaza Nueva and the Plaza de San Francisco. The latter, despite being smaller than Plaza Nueva, was much more popular because it was full of restaurants and bars with outdoor seating. It was undoubtedly a space that even if full of restaurants, still gave a sense of grandeur because it was so wide. From the end of the square began Calle Sierpes, a narrow and flat street of shops that was normally covered by canvas umbrellas. That whole central area was very active and I normally liked to go there for lunch, the houses were almost all renovated with brightly colored plaster that gave a very summery tone transmitting a feeling of calm. There were several buildings in the area that caught my attention and every time I passed by I liked to take new photos of them. There was one with a round front and balconies with a patio that was one of my favorites, however due to unfavorable circumstances I never managed to photograph it with the right light.    Cathedral and Geralda  Plaza Virgen de los Reyes  Real Alcázar de Sevilla  Cathedral side view  Giralda  Torre del Oro      Town Hall      Tres Cruces     Real Alcázar de Sevilla   Close view of Giralda   Plaza de Toros  The funny face    Puente Isabel II Setas de SevillaThe Setas of Seville was a structure that I discovered while studying the city before leaving. The structure immediately captured my curiosity for its modern architecture in light yellow and a totally original design. In fact, one of the first photos I saw depicted only a part of the Setas, a structure that looked to me like a sort of very high canopy with a honeycomb design. I didn't understand what urban context it was in and how it developed, however that image was enough to put it in the things to see but with a high priority. Together with my partner, we arrived at the Setas walking along the usual narrow streets of the center of Seville and once we arrived at Plaza de la Encarnación, I was truly amazed. The Setas was an imposing but not invasive work, it was much larger but let's say different from what I had imagined. Very large, the structure was supported by six round bases, where one of them was more spaced out thus giving an elongated shape. From a certain distance it really looked like a beehive but with a squashed appearance. What was surprising was the height, a detail that made it seem suspended, thus giving the idea of space without representing an invasive urban element in the classical context. On one of the bases there was a tall and wide staircase that also served to understand the proportion of the Setas as well as to serve the first floor of the structure. To tell the truth, it took me a while to understand which was the main part because from some angles I couldn't see the part of the structure that served as the entrance. The area of the surrounding square was also very beautiful with colorful plants that I used to create some particular photos. Later, only after we got closer to the staircase did I understand where the ground floor of the structure was. Right there, with the Setas above my head, I noticed that there were people walking on a walkway on the roof, I couldn't see much but it was enough to make me understand that it was also possible to visit the upper part of the roof. At that point I was too curious and finding the entrance to be able to visit the roof had become a necessity. The entrance was on the opposite side to where we arrived, where there was another staircase, however neither of them served access to the roof. On the ground floor, in addition to a museum and activities such as restaurants, there was also the ticket office. We bought the tickets there and then went up to the top. Being in the highest part of the Setas was an exciting feeling, because it was unexpected and because even on the roof the Setas offered incredible surprises. On the roof, in the shape of a serpentine that wound on high and low levels, there was a very long walkway, so long that I couldn't see it all but it appeared as I walked along it. From up there, not only was there a total view of the city, but in certain points also a view of that nest-shaped roof which was something unique. It must be said that up close, the elements that made up the structure were panels, positioned in an undulating way so as to give the idea of a wave or in any case a dynamic shape. These panels, although perfect in giving shape to the general structure, up close were not only anonymous but also seemed like temporary structures still to be completed. They were elements that seemed provisional like in houses under construction, panels that perhaps needed to be filled with cement. Furthermore, I saw several workers hanging from cables who were carrying out maintenance, an operation that I believe is necessary and very frequent. These technical reflections of mine did not ruin my walk on the roof of the Setas, the very contrasting view between the undulating shape of the structure with the background of the old city was a suggestive experience. That day, the only unpleasant thing was the wind that, moving clouds, created a situation of shadow and light in rapid succession that did not allow me to take photos with ease. The visit to the Setas is one of those that I include in the category of "discoveries". In fact, everything was born from a photo that only partially represented the real structure, a structure that, seen in person, gave me totally different sensations; more beautiful, richer, decorative and more exciting. I cannot remember Seville by limiting myself to the visit I made to this city, that trip led me to the discovery of an entire part of Andalusia, probably as I realized after other trips, one of the most beautiful places in the world. The choice to visit this city together with a girl was spot on. Seville is in fact a city that explored together with an "accomplice" gives an extra satisfaction. Those very narrow and mysterious streets, those timeless monuments and the bright colors of the houses, are definitely more fascinating if shared with a female person. Seville is not transgressive but rather a romantic city for its places and its colors. To amplify this romantic concept then, there are many flamenco singers almost always near the restaurants, very talented people who live the music even more than singing it. The fact that in Seville there was a sort of romantic magic was confirmed by the fact that my travel partner and I, have never been in love and yet in Seville a magic had been created. A kind of spell where for some reason we managed to agree on everything, a magical connection as well as practical. I have always given credit for that special connection to the city, not only for its atmosphere but also for reasons that cannot be explained rationally. I don’t know if this was the result of my idealization of the city, but I like to believe that there really was magic in Seville, something divine and mysterious that elevated the harmony and positive moods of both me and my partner. To this day, if I were to return to Seville, I would want it to be with a girl, I don’t see this city as a destination to do with a friend nor with the extravagance and transgression of the single trips I have done many times in recent years.             A.M.
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